The Plain

In the dry season the river, from a few hundred yards to a mile or two wide, winds through an open sandy flatness. But when the rains come the other side of the river is beyond the horizon and occasional trees mark villages. Sandy tracks are replaced by canoe channels through the grass and reeds, which now grow in profusion. The canal which connects Mongu harbour (at the bottom of the hill in the foreground) to the main Zambezi river (out of sight in the far distance), is a deeper blue trace in that sea of green. Only in flood is there enough depth of water for the Post Boat (lower left in the picture) (which draws about 6ft (2m)) to use it. Mongu Harbour and Barotse Plain

There is good grazing when the rains do come but the people who live on the mounds dotted around the plain seem reluctant to rely too much on the crops they plant. Perhaps it is because they can never be sure just when the river will reclaim 'their' land and 'their' villages, that they do not want to be tied too much to any one place.

Some years poor rains mean that many people do not have to move from their island homes as the waters rise, because it stops short of inundating them, but at other times the traditional pattern, based on the Kuomboka (coming out of water) ceremony, returns, as chief and people move with great pageantry to palace and settlements beyond the river's reach. At least the cattle, so important to their way of life, are able to escape to higher ground but the maize crop may be submerged before it can be harvested.  Villages are swept away and lives lost because of an unexpected sudden rise in the water level.

Cattle on Plain
 
 

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